The specific thing that went wrong was trying to use the homebrew version. 4 just worked out of the box, no hassle. I do of course have access to a Linux machine, but it'd be convenient to do development on my Mac as well. I'm willing to give it another shot but need to be convinced it's worthwhile.
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Well, I think Qt looks really pretty and generally prefer Qt apps over GTK versions. I find it nicer as a programmer too. I've known projects to migrate from GTK to Qt (in particular Rosegarden, which used to have a great blog post about how much nicer it made everything that I sadly can't find now) - looking at https://www.wikivs.com/wiki/GTK_vs_Qt there's a big list of projects that have switched from GTK to Qt and none that have gone in the other direction.