Unicomp modern versions of the IBM Model M keyboard built iwth the same tooling that made the originals. When living in a flat share I had access to a IBM Model M keyboard the one made for the PS/2 computer. This is one of the best keyboards I have ever used they are built like tanks.
Unicomp keyboards https://www.pckeyboard.com/
(I did have a real PS/2 Model M previously, so all I really wanted was a USB equivalent)
* https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=8191260
By chance, do you know the limits on real PS/2?
The big difference in the feel between buckling spring and MX blues is that buckling spring has a tactile drop where the force suddenly drops off right at the actuation point[1][2], where blues have a tactile bump where the force spikes up right before the actuation point[3][4]. I'm not sure what it's called, but the blues also have a temporary drop-off in pressure in the middle of the return stroke.
Which is better is a matter of personal preference. There's no substitute for actually trying a switch, but actual force/displacement graphs will do a much better job of telling you what a switch feels like than subjective words like "snappy" or "smooth" or "mushy". https://input.club/the-problem-with-mechanical-switch-review...
[1]: Model M measured: https://input.club/the-comparative-guide-to-mechanical-switc...
[2]: Model M nominal: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/31/Fig_2_ha...
[3]: MX blue measured: https://input.club/the-comparative-guide-to-mechanical-switc...
[4]: MX blue nominal: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/guide/graph-mx-blue.jpg
Notably missing, and fair warning:
- Floppy controller
- Floppy drive! 5 1/4”
- Hard drive controller (RLL)
- CGA or Monochrome Display Adapter
- Serial port adapter if you want to modem (25-pin 16450 UART)
- PC-DOS
Good luck. These are harder than you think, have no sound but a “beep”, and can’t even keep the time between reboots.
Paltry? The original started with 16kB, and maxed out at 64 kB (after a ROM revision at 256kB)
have no sound but a “beep”
If you were willing to use most of the CPU for it, you could get (for the time) more than that beep out of it.
You could also make sound by toggling the relay that switched on/off the cassette motor :-)
Honestly, you're probably better off finding an intact PC on ebay or Craigslist or such.
And for doing anything practical, much better off with a Raspberry Pi variant.
A quick Google Shopping search finds plenty, as well as converter devices from those signals to VGA.
I believe this video is about this project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCe0I3RJajY
If you want to go the 'soft' route of emulation then there is this:
> Obviously, this is a project for an advanced electronic hobbyist and computer enthusiast.
is somewhat tongue-in-cheek: this could be the thing to get a kid who's already soldered together a bunch of (less expensive) analog hobby kits .. or the adult who's into that sort of thing.
it's pretty much the same thing as building model cars, airplanes, etc. although it doesn't teach you exactly how the thing works, the perceptual task of doing the soldering and checking out the traces gives some idea of how things piece together.
as far as vintage electronics go, IBM PCs (probably?) aren't that difficult to find for those who're essentially interested in abstracting away from the hardware.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_PC_compatible
When some people think "clone", they think "compatibility" which leads to the following differences:
Excerpt:
"In May 1983, Future Computing defined four levels of compatibility:[11]
Operationally Compatible. Can run "the top selling" IBM PC software, use PC expansion boards, and read and write PC disks. Has "complementary features" like portability or lower price that distinguish computer from the PC, which is sold in the same store. Examples: (Best) Columbia Data Products, Compaq; (Better) Corona; (Good) Eagle.
Functionally Compatible. Runs own version of popular PC software. Cannot use PC expansion boards but can read and write PC disks. Cannot become Operationally Compatible. Example: TI Professional.
Data Compatible. May not run top PC software. Can read and/or write PC disks. Can become Functionally Compatible. Examples: NCR Decision Mate, Olivetti M20, Wang PC, Zenith Z-100.
Incompatible. Cannot read PC disks. Can become Data Compatible. Examples: Altos 586, DEC Rainbow 100, Grid Compass, Victor 9000."
So what type of a "clone" are we talking about?
I don't work for the company that makes the kit, and as far as I can tell prima facie, their kit is a faithful reproduction of the reference IBM PC hardware design.
I may be wrong, however.
My parents bought our first “ibm compatible” in 1987 and even back then the degree of compatibility was already a complete non-issue.