Note: This is an Anthony Bourdain piece. Everything he says is true. Accurate. Helpful. Good to know.
But he's also wrong because he's being idealistic. Followed to its logical conclusion, this piece indicates only the best people should work in kitchens. If that were true there wouldn't be many good restaurants. Not great, just good. Probably less than 1,000 in the US. Like any industry—heck, maybe even society—there are many less than ideal folks.
I say that as a chef myself. I deliver to my customers (restaurants and such) every day. I step into these places and all told, among dozens of kitchen staff, I see just a couple of people who are good at what they do. After decades, I've worked with just a few who I'd describe as great. Thankfully, I got to work under one who is great, and even so I wouldn't say I'm better than good.