> Does anyone actually enjoy using the Elm paradigm?

Reading "Elm architecture" (https://guide.elm-lang.org/architecture/) it looks like classic MVC - they just call it Model / View / Update instead of Model / View / Controller.

If not, the rest of my comment is invalid.

> I personally can't stand the amount of boilerplate and "indirect thinking" that it requires.

Of course, just because you use a classic paradigm it doesn't mean the implementation thereof is elegant. And that might be because according to the Elm docs programmers "stumbled" upon it (reinvent) instead of designing for it: "Rather than someone inventing it, early Elm programmers kept discovering the same basic patterns in their code."