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I'm using the latest version of chrome and there is no sticky header, and if you hide the table of contents there is no way to unhide it besides reloading the page. Does the new design behave differently for others?
I just tried in Firefox (confirmed in Brave) and found that there is another element which is added next to the article's title and can be clicked to show the table of contents with a link that says "move to sidebar" (which also does the thing).
Related and bunch of discussion over here:
Explore Wikipedia's New Look
Not without some tweaking.
It's much harder for my getting old eyes to read, so I had to adjust the new theme's font a little bigger.
The new Table of Contents on the left seems great.