Pretty disappointing. I thought I'd learn some new tricks in refurbishing old computer equipment. I am an old computer hoarder and I spend way too much time refurbishing old components(replacing caps, complete disassembly and cleaning of case and hardware, replacement with SSDs, maxxing out ram, etc.)
I have had a lot of trouble finding a way to do deep cleaning of plastics and refurbishing a case to like new status. I wanna learn how the pros do it. These plastics become yellowed, become brittle but the worst thing I am finding is just gouges in the plastic that I cannot smooth out or things such as stains that can't seem to get removed.
In terms of cleaning components, I first tried deoxit but it leaves a film that I don't like. Now I am resorting to soaking a board in 99% alcohol and using a brush to remove all the gunk off it and then using an air gun to blow away all the alcohol. Its the best way to leave boards looking like new but I am concerned with introducing liquids to solder joints and connectors and increasing their corrosion levels.
Anyone got any advice or resources I could use to improve my skills?
You can deyellow with retrobright, but the downside is that it makes plastic more brittle. If the plastic is already brittle, there’s not many options that don’t involve melting/warping the plastic. For some stains you can get them out with a magic eraser, it’s essentially a high grit sponge.
Agreed about deoxit, it’s still good for contacts though (cartridges and such.)
Do you brush dust off? If I dont use a brush with the IPA, it leaves behind the dust residue in clumps. Also more worryingly, it seems to leave contacts less shiny than before which is what concerns me.
>You can deyellow with retrobright, but the downside is that it makes plastic more brittle.
Yeah I have a pile of plastics I've been collecting that I wish to try with retrobrite but I haven't made the jump yet. I plan to try the 'vapor' method to be as gentle as possible on the plastic.
>For some stains you can get them out with a magic eraser, it’s essentially a high grit sponge.
In my experience magic eraser does remove stains but also smooths the plastic and removes the small bumps and bruises you naturally have on a lot of plastic pieces from the 90s. That roughness I am talking about is from the metal mold. Also magic eraser is terrible for clear plastics. How do you deal with that?
>Agreed about deoxit, it’s still good for contacts though (cartridges and such.)
Yes but the spray version gets everywhere. There are different versions of deoxit. I tired D-series and this stuff just does not fully evaporate from the board. I'm looking to try G series in the hopes that it does not leave a mess that I have to later clean.
I would make sure you’re not pushing around residue if it leaves contacts duller, 99% IPA shouldn’t leave it’s own residue (unless the dullness is from scratching the pads with the cleaning.)
Vapor method works well enough, but requiring sunny days is a bit of a bummer. I use it sometimes, but submersing in a UV box works pretty well without being too rough.
I honestly don’t run into that with magic eraser, you’re keeping the eraser wet right? I might just be pretty gentle with it, but I’m pretty sensitive to this stuff and haven’t noticed any damage.
Yep go for the direct application stuff, I forget exactly which series it is but is easier to apply. One thing I’ve copied from the YouTuber TronicsFix is applying the deoxit to a small square of magic eraser and using that to clean the contacts.
No personal experience, but I suggest you investigate how people polish car headlights. Non-abrasive toothpaste is one common choice. Or if you want to go a bit more professional, try a plastic polishing kit or a range of progressively finer sandpapers (the coarsest paper removes the scratches, then each paper removes the scratches the previous one introduced, until you just can't see them any more. You can buy sandpaper up to 60k grit, but I doubt you'll need to go above 15k grit).
I would take castoffs being thrown out by the school, or stuff other kids had gotten from family members who upgraded, fix them up, upgrade them if I could, and put on a suitable OS with any customizations and streamlining I could do to make them run the best they could. I think I even worked on a 486 once which was pretty old. But it could do word processing!
I still miss that! When I see an old PC sitting around I yearn for an excuse to do that again. Sadly I don’t think I could find anyone who would want them.
Which is a shame, because Core 2 Duo is perfectly fine for most modern purposes other than video games.
(My main Debian machine is still Core 2 Duo. RAM usage usually hovers around 1-2 GB, including buffers (and I don't enable swap), and that's when often running 3 dissimilar Web browsers at once, plus a couple other programs once considered memory-hungry.)
If all I had in front of me was a C2D I could still get the vast majority of my work accomplished with little to no issue, provided the system was running Linux or BSD.
It’s fine capped at 8GB but if it could swing 16GB it’d be somewhere between decent and great for anything but gaming.
Earlier in the Web era, a gigabyte of RAM in a workstation was for when you needed a ton of fast memory, such as for keeping a complex data model in-core.
Don't throw away a Core 2 Duo because it only has a couple gigabytes of RAM.
Up to 480p video with MPV. Telegram with Nchat. Dillo/lynx for daily browsing, (lynx calling sxiv and mpv externally), Luakit for gov. related JS crap. MuPDF for PDF's and image-bound EPUBs, lynx and script otherwise.
"@".join("three", "theelous3.net")
also have almost all parts for a compaq portable ii
> Laptops have shorter service lives because they get dropped or drinks spilled on them.
Those are certainly factors, but I've found reduced battery life is what gets users asking for a new laptop if they haven't prematurely killed it some other way.
There are literally warehouses with desktop computers in good condition, stacked to the ceiling, with locked doors and teenage gamers from poor areas loitering outside. Its ridiculously dysfunctional.
This can range from just crushing drives all the way to running a hydraulic punch through any non-volatile storage on circuit boards (including flash used for UEFI). This is common enough that most manufacturers will provide a guide to all the non-volatile storage in a product: Statement or Letter of Volatility.
I've gotten some great deals on high-end networking equipment (e.g. Juniper, Arista) by buying boxes that had the SSDs removed & crushed. It's a little annoying to track down replacements, but doable.
In Cambridge, MA, on around 100 occasions I found a desktop PC that had set out beside the trash on the curb. But I think I recall only one laptop, and never a smartphone.
I wondered whether smaller devices were too easy to put in a drawer, sell online, take with you when you move from your college town apartment, or simply put into the trash can. (I don't think it was only that laptops and smartphones were more likely to be grabbed by a passerby before I saw them, because I was diligent enough that I still should've seen more of them if they were there.)
I was in high school, had no money, and would have killed for a salvaged PowerBook. I wanted him to teach me his ways.
I think most artists would tend to disagree on that one ;)