It's amazing how something so seemingly minor can make such a huge difference. I feel like I'm traversing the web of yesteryear (true yesteryear, not the animated gif'd web of 1997). Thanks for the link OP! One critique: The desaturation occurs a noticeable ~300ms after the page starts displaying, which means I always get a brief flash of colour.
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You can avoid the flash by adding this into the Custom.css:
html {
-webkit-filter: grayscale(100%);
}
On windows it's located in:
%LOCALAPPDATA%\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\User StyleSheets\Custom.css
apart from that flash of color, I am really enjoying it also.
It is almost calming, and allows me to focus on content much more easily - very similarly to the way readability or instapaper do without the need to switch contexts.